Camper Setup
If you do not have a water hook up at your campsite, check step 10 before leaving your house.
Back into your campsite.
Your camper and truck must be straight to start disconnecting.
Try to have the camper in the most level spot on the campsite (if you can).
You also want to make sure you will have room to park your vehicle once you disconnect from the camper. Most campsites prefer you to park your vehicle in front of the camper.
Check the level on the front of the camper, to see if you are level side-to-side.
If you are not, move slightly forward, and place a leveling block behind the tire on the side that needs raised.
If the bubble of the level is towards the right side, place leveling blocks on the left side.
If the bubble of the level is towards the left side, place leveling blocks on the right side.
Back your vehicle up onto the blocks.
Check the level on the front of the camper. Make sure it is in the center.
If it’s not, move forward and place more leveling blocks in the same spots.
Repeat this until the bubble is centered on the front level.
Grab the wheel blocks from the front camper compartment, and place one next to each tire.
Pull the block out of the camper compartment to put underneath the front jack.
Now it’s time to disconnect your trailer coupler from your truck ball.
Raise the camper by turning the handle that lowers the front jack.
Raise the camper as high as possible.
Go to the sway bars.
Place the silver wrench on the blue ox connector.
There is a safety pin on the blue ox connector that you can pull out with your hand as you turn the silver wrench on the bolt.
Move this a little at a time so that the sway bars don’t snap off as you do it.
Once you move the safety pin and wrench a little bit, and the safety pin is staying out, you can now use both hands to turn the silver wrench completely.
Make sure the links are off of the blue ox connector.
Remove the sway bars from your truck hitch by pulling out the pins where they sit on your vehicle and pulling the bars out.
All of these steps are the same on both sides of the trailer hitch.
Place the sway bars back in the front camper compartment.
Lower the camper back down.
Unhook the two safety chains and emergency brake cable from your vehicle.
Unplug the round 7 pin connector from the back of your vehicle.
Remove the safety pin from the latch coupling (the lever on top of the trailer coupler).
Now pull the latch coupling up and away. It will sit on top of the ledge instead of resting perfectly in its place.
Raise the jack by cranking the same handle as before clockwise.
Raise it enough to move your vehicle away from the camper.
Move your vehicle.
Plug in your camper (from the right side power cord) to the power source at your campsite.
You can find the power cord in the rear camper compartment.
Once you place it into the spot it plugs into the camper, twist clockwise.
Some campsites have the breakers turned off at their power source, so make sure to turn on the 30 amp breakers after you fully plug it in.
There is an adapter in the same compartment if you need to plug into a 20 amp plug.
Now it’s time to level your camper front-to-back.
If the bubble on the side level is toward the left, lower the front jack.
This will lower the front of the camper.
If the bubble on the side level is toward the right, raise the front jack.
This will raise the front of the camper.
Whichever way it needs to move, make sure the bubble ends in the middle of the side level.
If you want to double check, take the level from the front camper compartment, and place it inside the camper on the floor at the doorway.
If the bubble is centered, you are done! Great job 🙂
To lower the four stabilizer jacks, either grab your drill and the provided drill attachment or the provided hand level tool from the front camper compartment.
Drill not included.
Also grab four blocks to rest each jack on top of.
If you are higher on one side than the other (in your side-to-side leveling), you can grab more blocks to put under the jacks on the side that needs to be raised.
Put them down, but do not lower them too far otherwise they lose their stability.
Refer to stabilizer jack pictures for more guidance.
It is time to hook up the water.
If you are going to a campground that does not supply water hook up at the site, fill up before you leave or fill up at the designated place at the campground.
This will go through your fresh water connection.
Grab the hose and the water filter from the rear camper compartment.
If you have a water source at your campsite, connect the water filter to the water source at the campsite.
Connect the hose to your water filter.
Once they are connected, run the water through the filter and hose for about 10 seconds to flush any remnants out.
Turn the water back off.
Hook the hose up to the city water connection.
Turn the water back on.
Open the compartment next to the water (on the left).
Flip the switch to turn the hot water on.
Close the compartment.
Walk over to the propane tank on the front of the camper, and make sure the valve is open.
If you are at a full-hook-up site, it’s time to set up the dump (gloves are in the rear compartment).
There will be a hose in the rear bumper.
To grab this, take off the side black rubber cap.
Fully pull this out.
Now take the end with the four hooks and connect it to the connection of the dump tank by turning it clockwise.
Connect the other end of the hose to the sewer spot at the campsite with the clear 90 degree attachment (this is in the rear compartment).
Refer to the “How to Dump” section once you are ready to dump.
Let’s get inside this camper by putting the stairs down (FINALLY).
Before putting the stairs down, put the hand railing out by lifting and twisting it to the right.
Make sure your door is completely open.
Now put your one hand on the stairs to hold it in place.
Release the blue handle tab on the bottom left side of the stairs with your other hand.
Slowly start to lower the stairs.
As you are lowering, make sure the black piece that connects the stairs to the camper is parallel to the camper.
It needs to be flat, without a gap, laying perfectly against the silver floor piece for the door to close completely.
Grab the left foot leg of the stairs.
Pull it down until perfectly flat with the ground (there is also a button you can push to release the leg, as well).
Do the same to the right.
Make sure they click in place.
IMPORTANT: Make sure to double check that there is no gap between the black piece and the silver part of the floor. If there is a gap, the stairs will not stay still as you use them.
Make sure to use the hand railing entering and exiting the camper. The stairs may be slippery, so please take precaution.
Before you enter the camper, reach in on the left side of the counter. Look for the red lever (next to the trash can).
Put this into the socket on the same wall and turn it clockwise on.
Up above, on that same side with the cupboards there is a control panel.
The lights will be on.
This is where you will find your slide out buttons, awning, and water levels.
It’s time to extend the slide out.
There is a slide out section on your control panel with “in” and “out” buttons
Hold the “out” button until it completely stops moving.
Do not let go until it is completely out and stops! (The slide out could break if you stop pressing the button before it is done going out).
Let’s put out the awning.
There is an awning section on your control panel with “extend” and “retract” buttons.
Before putting the awning out, make sure the camper door is closed, otherwise the awning will get stuck.
Hold the “extend” button until it is fully out.
While the awning is out, grab the blue pool noodle from the front camper compartment to put on the top bar of the awning (by the door) to help stop the door from slamming into the bar.
If it is windy, but the awning back in. (See Camper Take Down section for more info).
The lightbulb button that is labeled awning will turn on the outside lights.
The other lightbulb button labeled “external” turns the light on above the valves for the gray and black tanks.
If you fill up the water tank at home or at a different spot at the campground, the control panel has a water pump button. You will use this if you aren’t connected to water at your site.
This is part of the fresh water tank.
If you are hooked up to a city water connection, you don’t have to worry about this.
There is another control panel in the bathroom. This allows you to turn the hot water tank on. Hit the power button to turn it on.
It won’t turn on unless it senses there is water inside of the water heater.
The control panel in the bathroom also controls the temperature of the water.
You can adjust the temperature up with the up arrow and down with the down arrow.
How to work the A/C:
The ceiling has two turn knobs that allow you to adjust the A/C. Your options are Fan - low and high; and Cool - low and high. Turn the knob counterclockwise to adjust these settings.
The second knob is the temperature switch.
You can adjust the vents in the same area as you please.
How to work the furnace (underneath the stove):
The thermostat for the furnace is in between the fridge and the dinette on the wall.
Click to the right is on.
To adjust the temperature, after you hear the click, continue to slide to the right. The farther to the right, the hotter it is.
Click to the left is off.
If it doesn't get warm inside, make sure the propane tank is on.
How to use the stove:
Lift the glass covering all the way towards the window (up and back).
If the glass gets hot, it will break. Make sure it is all the way up.
Hit the blue button next to the knob.
Turn the knob towards the left to “high”.
Then push the knob in to ignite the flames.
Now you can adjust your temperature with the knob.
When you are done, make sure you turn it back off.
Leave the glass lid up for a little bit for the stove top to cool, otherwise the glass could break if it gets too hot.
There is a fan and a light above the stove you can turn on (underneath the microwave).
Lights in the camper turn on by pushing the center of the light.
Helpful tips and tricks:
The bottom bunk door is a fire exit!
Don’t fill up your bathroom mirror until you are at your final destination. It will come pouring out.
If the hand sink in the bathroom starts to leak, check the gray water tank.
It most likely means the tanks are full, and it’s time to empty.
The refrigerator will come on automatically and works with the solar panel (if you have no power).
The refrigerator takes three hours to get completely cool.
If you are going to use the mini fridge outside, twist the turn lock.
The door will come down.
The microwave is the same as normal ones in houses.
There is a K-cup machine and cooking utensils under the sink.
You must bring your own K-cups.
Various Control Panel Capabilities:
There are bluetooth capabilities.
This controls your camper functions and a backup camera. It will not connect to play music on your sound system.
We do not advise to use this because access to the camera is tricky and may not be worth your time.
There is a radio.
There is a USB port.
There is an HDMI spot.
Your voltage gauge shows your solar power levels.
If it hits 11, you will want to plug in.
